Soviet chic meets terrace fashion for new Burberry collection
London Fashion Week Men's took place this week and Burberry unveiled its latest collection there on the same day as it was released in stores, simultaneously enjoying a football themed launch, at Dover Street Market in Piccadilly and Burberry stores around the country. (The collection was originally previewed in St Petersburg the first city in Russia to play football, the sport Rubchinskiy keeps returning to).
The new collection, designed by Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy, seeks to re-establish Burberry on the luxury fashion market and echoes the 1990’s culture many remember it for.
Gosha Rubchinskiy, a former hair dresser and makeup artist, often takes inspiration from the culture at the time of the fall of the Iron Curtain and Russian street and youth culture. Using the same motifs but from an anglo-centric perspective his new Burberry collection references the era as it recalls the terrace violence and hooliganism of the time anchoring the collection to football both here and in Russia. When asked why he decided to join forces with Burberry, Rubchinskiy answered “I thought, which brand is most iconic. It’s Burberry. It suits many things in the collection, like underground electronic music, like football, England, Russia, club culture.”
In recent times Burberry has shied away from it’s trademark check, often culturally associated with the chav culture of the early 2000’s, going so far as to remove it from 90% of it’s line but Rubchinskiy seems to have embraced it, emblazoning it on scarves and hats and using it to show off the linings of other pieces. This is a theme of the designer whom also uses his work to show off the ‘Gopnik’ tracksuit wardrobe of the similar Russian youth subculture.
Former Burberry CEO Christopher Bailey stepped down last year having increased sales revenue to £2.8billion and was succeeded by Marco Gobetti.
Dominion holds Burberry in its Global Trends Luxury Fund.
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